Rigging Inspection: Ascending the Mast

Here is where things get interesting in that you cannot go up the mast to inspect the masthead fitting without the use of steps or a boatswain's chair.  I for one, do not go up a mast unless the halyard goes through the masthead and back down to a winch.  Use your binoculars to get a better look at things aloft.  I do not suggest using an external block at the masthead unless you have no other choice.  Always use a safety line (another halyard) and a safety clip on your boatswain's chair.

If you are climbing up the mast using mast steps, most certainly use a safety belt. On a wooden mast the steps are usually screw fastened so check for any loose screws.  On an aluminum mast it is common to use stainless steel machine screws or pop rivets. Never trust only one step completely.  Try to spread your weight evenly between the steps.  Use your safety belt and a second halyard with a strong person (who likes you) to tail this safety line.

When you arrive at the lower shroud terminals check the fastenings holding the mast tangs to the mast.  Check the swage terminals for cracks or any unusual markings. This is when you will find out whether or not the standing rigging has been completely replaced.

As I mentioned earlier sellers may claim that the rigging is all new when in fact only the end terminals at deck level have been replaced.  Be suspicious even if both upper and lower terminals have been replaced.  Look at the wire very carefully to determine whether the wire was replaced at the same time.
Often the owner will show you receipts of exactly what has been replaced.  Most insurance companies recommend replacing all the wire every ten years.

Often masts have a compression tube fit through the mast so as not to compress the mast under a load. Whether you have two or four lower shrouds depends on what type of rig you have.  Most offshore type rigs have four lowers.

While we are on the subject, all standing rigging should comprise of at least one or more toggles where the rigging terminates allowing for proper alignment between the chain plate and the angle of stress.

We will talk about chain plates in great detail later in this purchase inspection series.

The Rigging: Part 1 - Masts and inspections

Quite often owners and brokers will tell you that the rigging on what could be your next sail boat has been completely redone.  Rarely is this the case.
To be sure you should contact a yacht surveyor or a qualified rigger to do an on-board and up the mast inspection. Once you have the report you will have a better idea of what you are dealing with.  Oftentimes you will discover that the rigging has not been replaced and only the cable ends at deck level were replaced with Sta-Lok or Norseman fittings.  One must consider not just the end fittings on the cable at both ends but the cable itself.  Rigging replacement should include turnbuckles, tangs, toggles and chain plates and let's not forget about the cables and any runners you may have.  Running back stays, jumper stays, bob stays and whisker stays are just as important.  Spreader fittings both at the mast and at the spreader tips should be carefully inspected or replaced.
The mast step should be of sound material giving the mast a firm foundation.  It should be replaced if there is any sign of weakness or damage.  The mast base fitting or locating timbers should be free from rot or splits and should be treated with anti-rot and anti-fungal chemicals.  Steel steps should be cleaned and sealed as often as necessary.  An aluminum mast and the lower end plate should be free from blistered paint or corrosion of any type.  Severe corrosion at the mast base can sometimes be cut off by a few inches to remove the corrosion.  The mast will sit short but the replacement of the rigging cables can compensate for this.  A few inches will not be noticeable nor will it adversely affect the performance of the rig. If the mast has to be shortened more than a few inches or even feet this is not a big deal.  The section to be replaced should be welded or screw fastened or perhaps pop riveted in place.  The method you chose should be approved by your surveyor/rigger and your insurance company.
We will continue up the mast with suggestions on winch pads, cleats, spreaders, tangs, bails and masthead fittings tomorrow.