Not many years ago, a group of friends here in Oriental, were invited to crew for the sailing vessel Bounty in the annual New Year's Day Non Football Regatta.
Here in Oriental, NC, not many people are that interested in football so every New Year's Day there is a regatta during the time when most of America is watching football. The requirements of the regatta are that you use a sailboat to circumnavigate at least three buoys if not more in the Neuse River off of Oriental. After this stringent qualification of passing the third mark your vessel and its crew meet the requirements set forth in the race committees rules and regs. Basically, the name of your vessel and its captain will be placed in a felt hat. The name drawn is now considered the winner. The purse includes free horsd'oeuvres at M and M's and dinner and drinks at your own expense.
You may even read and return to the shelf a children's adventure book written by our very own Bernie Harberts who spent much of the race aloft in the spreaders taking photographs of other competitors and our exuberant crew.
Meanwhile, Captain John is down below taking inventory of his exquisite French wine collection which has become airborne along with his laptop, cellphone and other miscellaneous items.
Bernie caught some of the crew sleeping on the job but fun was had by all.
Did we qualify to win? Yes! Did we actually win? No, but there is always next year.
For more adventures with Bernie check out this clip from his offshore excursion. Bernie Harberts: 65 days Alone at Sea
Tuesday, March 27, 2012
Rigging Inspection: Ascending the Mast
Here is where things get interesting in that you cannot go up the mast to inspect the masthead fitting without the use of steps or a boatswain's chair. I for one, do not go up a mast unless the halyard goes through the masthead and back down to a winch. Use your binoculars to get a better look at things aloft. I do not suggest using an external block at the masthead unless you have no other choice. Always use a safety line (another halyard) and a safety clip on your boatswain's chair.
If you are climbing up the mast using mast steps, most certainly use a safety belt. On a wooden mast the steps are usually screw fastened so check for any loose screws. On an aluminum mast it is common to use stainless steel machine screws or pop rivets. Never trust only one step completely. Try to spread your weight evenly between the steps. Use your safety belt and a second halyard with a strong person (who likes you) to tail this safety line.
When you arrive at the lower shroud terminals check the fastenings holding the mast tangs to the mast. Check the swage terminals for cracks or any unusual markings. This is when you will find out whether or not the standing rigging has been completely replaced.
As I mentioned earlier sellers may claim that the rigging is all new when in fact only the end terminals at deck level have been replaced. Be suspicious even if both upper and lower terminals have been replaced. Look at the wire very carefully to determine whether the wire was replaced at the same time.
Often the owner will show you receipts of exactly what has been replaced. Most insurance companies recommend replacing all the wire every ten years.
Often masts have a compression tube fit through the mast so as not to compress the mast under a load. Whether you have two or four lower shrouds depends on what type of rig you have. Most offshore type rigs have four lowers.
While we are on the subject, all standing rigging should comprise of at least one or more toggles where the rigging terminates allowing for proper alignment between the chain plate and the angle of stress.
We will talk about chain plates in great detail later in this purchase inspection series.
If you are climbing up the mast using mast steps, most certainly use a safety belt. On a wooden mast the steps are usually screw fastened so check for any loose screws. On an aluminum mast it is common to use stainless steel machine screws or pop rivets. Never trust only one step completely. Try to spread your weight evenly between the steps. Use your safety belt and a second halyard with a strong person (who likes you) to tail this safety line.
When you arrive at the lower shroud terminals check the fastenings holding the mast tangs to the mast. Check the swage terminals for cracks or any unusual markings. This is when you will find out whether or not the standing rigging has been completely replaced.
As I mentioned earlier sellers may claim that the rigging is all new when in fact only the end terminals at deck level have been replaced. Be suspicious even if both upper and lower terminals have been replaced. Look at the wire very carefully to determine whether the wire was replaced at the same time.
Often the owner will show you receipts of exactly what has been replaced. Most insurance companies recommend replacing all the wire every ten years.
Often masts have a compression tube fit through the mast so as not to compress the mast under a load. Whether you have two or four lower shrouds depends on what type of rig you have. Most offshore type rigs have four lowers.
While we are on the subject, all standing rigging should comprise of at least one or more toggles where the rigging terminates allowing for proper alignment between the chain plate and the angle of stress.
We will talk about chain plates in great detail later in this purchase inspection series.
Rigging Inspection: Winches used for Standing Rigging
Moving up the mast to the winches: These winches can be considered part of the standing rigging. What this means is that a winch that holds a cable furling system or a flying jib can also stand all season long or longer without inspection. It may be a hassle to drop the system but it should be done at least twice a year.
Don't forget that the winch is a vital part of the standing rigging. The system should be inspected for wear and tear, corrosion, frayed wire/rope and most importantly the fasteners holding the winch to the mast. If the halyard is wire/rope spliced, be sure to inspect the splice very carefully and the cable for frays. Inspect any cleats that are used to cleat the tail of this halyard. Some modern sailboats use line clutches or line stoppers to hold this line fast. Close inspection of these stoppers or line clutches is standard. Check for wear and tear, corrosion and proper operation.
Remove the winch head and be sure the winch is well lubricated and the gears are clean. Clean and re-grease if necessary making sure the winch operates freely. Make sure not to lose the small springs or clutch dogs overboard. I am speaking from personal experience, this makes for a bad day.
Don't forget that the winch is a vital part of the standing rigging. The system should be inspected for wear and tear, corrosion, frayed wire/rope and most importantly the fasteners holding the winch to the mast. If the halyard is wire/rope spliced, be sure to inspect the splice very carefully and the cable for frays. Inspect any cleats that are used to cleat the tail of this halyard. Some modern sailboats use line clutches or line stoppers to hold this line fast. Close inspection of these stoppers or line clutches is standard. Check for wear and tear, corrosion and proper operation.
Remove the winch head and be sure the winch is well lubricated and the gears are clean. Clean and re-grease if necessary making sure the winch operates freely. Make sure not to lose the small springs or clutch dogs overboard. I am speaking from personal experience, this makes for a bad day.
Monday, March 26, 2012
Rigging Inspection: Standing vs. Running
The difference between standing and running rigging can be confusing. Standing rigging usually means fixed wire or cable and even rod rigging that is adjustable by way of turn screws (turn buckles) or dead eye and lanyard on older style boats. Running is easily adjusted by way of block and tackle, winches and line. Quite often one may overlook the combination between standing and running rigging for instance a roller furling jib that is hoisted by wire to a winch and left as standing rigging. Here is where it gets confusing. Although jibs, stay sails and even some mainsails are held in place by wire this is very common on modern cruising sailboats. This rigging should be treated as both types, standing and running.
Early types of jib furls were actually an aluminum extrusion taking place of the wire fore stay. In this application we would treat this as standing rigging and inspect it accordingly.
With even earlier types of furl systems the jib or fore sail was actually stitched to the fore stay wire. This would be treated as running rigging and subject to constant inspection because of the nature in which it operates. This type of furling is subject to heavy loads and tremendous twisting stresses. The more modern furling systems consist of extrusions, bearings, roller drums and in most cases the furling drum conceals the turn buckle, toggle, tangs and pins.
Whenever the drum and housing conceal the turn buckle, etc. you may find the original compression wire terminal fitting still in place. This should be considered suspect and should be replaced as soon as possible with a Norseman or Sta-lock type fitting. One should also consider at this time replacing the fore stay wire due to its age.
Consult your insurance company in order to meet their criteria and limits on age of standing rigging (10 years is common).
Early types of jib furls were actually an aluminum extrusion taking place of the wire fore stay. In this application we would treat this as standing rigging and inspect it accordingly.
With even earlier types of furl systems the jib or fore sail was actually stitched to the fore stay wire. This would be treated as running rigging and subject to constant inspection because of the nature in which it operates. This type of furling is subject to heavy loads and tremendous twisting stresses. The more modern furling systems consist of extrusions, bearings, roller drums and in most cases the furling drum conceals the turn buckle, toggle, tangs and pins.
Whenever the drum and housing conceal the turn buckle, etc. you may find the original compression wire terminal fitting still in place. This should be considered suspect and should be replaced as soon as possible with a Norseman or Sta-lock type fitting. One should also consider at this time replacing the fore stay wire due to its age.
Consult your insurance company in order to meet their criteria and limits on age of standing rigging (10 years is common).
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